Milam glacier nestled in the Kumaon hills and dotted with treacherous slopes and crevices may not be an ideal spot for a city-stressed mountain visitor. But for the avid trekker, eager to savour a slice of life at the deserted mountain villages that lurk on the long-winding route to the glacier, the journey can be an exciting, even exhilarating experience.
The route to Milam passes through the hamlet of Lilam amidst the beautiful forests along the Gori river valley. Milam is basically deserted except for a handful of jawans living an isolated existence warmed by swigs of Raksi, the local brew liquor.
Here the Gori river is alive and angry as debris and boulders crash into it from the 4000 metre high Milam glacier. For the people of the region, the glacier is a hallowed, mysterious land, an abode of gods and spirits who devour the irreverant exploreres. But it is the treacherous topography of Milam which deters the average traveller from venturing towards this 27 kilometre long glacier, perhaps the longest in the region. The entire stretch of thsi slow-moving ice slab is serrated with deep crevasses and cracks. At its head lie three towering peaks. Among them the highest and most dreaded is Hardeol.
Even for not-so-hardy explorers, the villages around Milam provide a surrealistic experience. On the higher slopes of Gori river valley is the village of Tola. On the slopes of the Gori river valley a narrow path leads to the Martoli village. From here the splendid peak of Nanda Devi is visible, rising heads and shoulders above the other mountains. But the village itself is deserted, overgrown with weeds.
A walk over the crevice-infested Milam disheartens most travellers. Plans to traverse the glacier to Ikulari and return via the Ralam pass appear a bit too ambitious. But the frayed map of the area triggers many, for it shows a route to Tibet through the difficult passes of Kungribingri La and the Kiogad La .
For a zealous rambler with a sure foot and a desire to unravel the mysteries of deserted mountain villages, the route to Milam glacier in Kumaon, provide a stirring, soulful journey.
KNOW ME I MY FAMILY I MY FRIENDS I MY TOWN I MY PHOTOALBUMS
KNOWLEDGE POWER I MY GUESTBOOK I TELL A FRIEND I MY COMMUNITY